NOIR opens when the city dims. One room, twenty-four seats, an open hearth at its centre — the menu follows the market and the season, never the other way round.
There is no à la carte theatre here. Dishes arrive when they are ready, wine is poured by people who drink it, and the last table leaves long after midnight.
Elias Marchand cooked in Lyon, San Sebastián and Copenhagen before taking a disused printing floor off Carrer de la Nit and leaving the walls exactly as he found them.